Me Doing the FRI and the Zippers Are Branded YKY [start a clothing brand]
- The Idea Lab
- Jun 12
- 5 min read
(Don’t laugh — you’ve had that moment too.)
So there I am, squatting next to a carton at 8:37 AM in a warehouse that smells like freshly cut cardboard and instant coffee, doing a Final Random Inspection (FRI) like my whole reputation depends on it — because it kind of does — and then I see it: the zippers.
Not YKK.
YKY.
I blink. I check again.
Y. K. Y.
Close enough to fool the untrained eye, but not close enough to end up on shelves in New York without someone eventually catching on. And when they do? Oh, they won’t care if it was a “factory misunderstanding.” They’ll just think you don’t know what you’re doing.
Welcome to the real world of trying to start a clothing brand.
If you’re nodding, cringing, or frantically checking the zippers on your last shipment, hi, you’re in the right place. I built a garment sourcing course just for moments like this — Garment Sourcing 101. It’s the safety net I wish I had when I was learning all this stuff the hard way, over 15+ years, hundreds of factories, and more “almost disasters” than I care to admit.
Because here’s the truth: Starting a clothing brand isn’t about aesthetics. It’s not about “vibes.” It’s about being detail-obsessed, fluent in factory-speak, and borderline paranoid about things like zippers, thread counts, and heat seal placement.
You don’t just need a vision board. You need a factory-ready mindset.
Let’s talk about it.
If You’re Starting a Clothing Brand and Not Checking Hardware — You’re Setting Yourself Up
Let me paint a picture.
You found the perfect supplier on Alibaba. The sample came in looking great. You approved production. You’re feeling like a CEO. Maybe you even posted a behind-the-scenes story with a caption like “first drop coming soon 👀.”
But you didn’t check the zipper supplier.
Didn’t specify the brand.
Didn’t lock in the actual trims list.
Didn’t list YKK in the tech pack because the sample just… had it.
So the factory used YKY. Because it’s cheaper. Because it looks almost the same. Because no one told them not to. Because “YKK” isn’t a standard — it’s a request. A specific one.
And unless you’ve written it down, confirmed it in your BOM (bill of materials), and circled back at inspection? You’re gonna learn the hard way that “almost YKK” doesn’t count.
The devil is in the details. And when you’re starting a clothing brand, those details can tank your entire first run.
The Great Zipper Swap: Why This Happens (And Keeps Happening)
Here’s the thing. Factories aren’t trying to scam you. Well — most of them aren’t. But they are trying to stay within budget. And when a zipper costs 6¢ instead of 12¢, and no one told them it must be a branded YKK, they’re going to pick the one that keeps their margins safe.
This isn’t personal.
It’s production logic.
Unless you’re crystal clear with what you want — and have built a relationship where that clarity is respected — substitutions will happen. Zippers, interlining, even the tape on your swing tags. You asked for premium? You’ll get “premium-ish” if you’re not specific.
This is one of those invisible truths about building a fashion brand no one tells you in the “launch your label in 30 days” webinars.
Because you’re not just designing clothing.
You’re managing industrial behavior.
15 Years In, and I’m Still Checking Zippers Like a Lunatic
No joke — I’ve been in this game for over 15 years. Worked with high-street brands, DTC startups, influencer labels, you name it. I’ve had containers go out smooth as silk, and others where I had to physically block a shipment because someone tried to switch out the lining fabric after bulk approval.
So yeah — I check zippers.
I check every pocket seam.
I pull random units from cartons even when the QA team swears everything is fine.
Because when your name is on the line, you don’t want to get an email from a customer saying, “Hey, is this supposed to say YKY?” followed by a 3-paragraph takedown in your comments section about how you’re “cutting corners.”
(Yes, that’s happened. And no, it wasn’t pretty.)
Starting a clothing brand means learning to anticipate issues before they become public-facing problems. You need systems. You need boundaries. You need sourcing strategy that makes you feel like a control freak in the best possible way.
Let’s Be Honest: No One Tells You This Part
People talk about:
Moodboards
Marketing
Fonts
Dropshipping vs wholesale
Shopify themes
They don’t talk about:
Trim specs
Thread tensile strength
Zipper tape shrinkage after garment dye
Or how “black” fabric isn’t always the same black unless you specify Pantone + finish + wash instructions
And if they do talk about it, it’s often buried in some Reddit thread or deep inside a factory email chain that you skimmed because the English was broken.
But this is the real stuff.
This is the difference between a brand that ships and a brand that folds (literally and figuratively) after its first production run.
Which is why I made Garment Sourcing 101. Not because I needed a new product to sell, but because after mentoring dozens of new founders, I realized most people were walking into this with vision but no systems.
What Starting a Clothing Brand Really Means
It means:
You don’t approve bulk based on one clean sample
You don’t assume your supplier understands “premium”
You follow up with questions like “Which zipper brand are you using?” and “Did you match the PO spec?”
It means doing the boring stuff before the creative stuff so that your creativity doesn’t get destroyed in the sampling room.
Because nothing kills a launch faster than having to redo a production run due to 500 units of slightly-wrong trim.
The magic is in the margins. And margins live in the details.
Start Slow. Start Smart. Start With Systems.
If you’re serious about launching your own brand — whether it’s streetwear, RTW, or some minimalist startup capsule — my biggest advice?
Don’t skip the groundwork.
Don’t rely on vibes.
Don’t assume your vision translates without instruction.
Factories need specifics.
You need structure.
And your future customers? They need your product to not fall apart in week three.
The good news? You don’t have to figure it out alone.
I’ve built a blueprint that walks you through everything — from supplier selection to fabric sourcing to what to include in your tech pack (including the exact way to specify your zipper brand so no one tries the YKY trick again).
You can check it out here: Garment Sourcing 101. It’s your go-to toolkit for turning a design dream into a production reality — without getting burned along the way.
And yes, there’s a whole module about trims, zippers, and the weird ways factories interpret “almost the same.”
Whether you’re in your first factory visit or still moodboarding on Canva, just know: starting a clothing brand isn’t a sprint. It’s a blueprint. It’s process. And yes, sometimes it’s finding yourself in a freezing warehouse with a flashlight, zooming in on tiny embossed zipper teeth.
Because the details matter. And knowing what to look for — that’s what makes the difference between a brand that grows and one that glitches out on the first run.
So double-check your BOM.
Train your eye.
And please — don’t fall for YKY.
You’re better than that.

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