How to Start a Clothing Brand Without Asking for Whale Counts in Corduroy

The Idea Lab
May 19
2 min read

You’re not making whales. You’re making cords. But if you don’t speak factory, you’ll get laughed out of the sample room.

Learn how to speak the language of production inside Garment Sourcing 101

Me when the supplier says “we don’t eat whales” after I ask what their standard whale count is.

We’re making corduroy. Not sushi.

And yet, here I am, trying to confirm the wale density (aka the number of ridges per inch in corduroy) and my supplier thinks I’m accusing them of hunting endangered sea mammals.

This is the kind of misunderstanding that can derail your sampling process — and your credibility — in five seconds flat.

Why This Happens (And Why It Matters)

When you’re trying to start a clothing brand, you’re focused on design, sourcing fabrics, getting samples made.

But no one tells you there’s a whole second language in garment manufacturing — a mix of technical jargon, industry slang, and cultural context that doesn’t always translate well.

Like:

Wale count (not whale count)
GSM (not GPS)
Strike-offs, lab dips, top-of-production samples…

If you’re not fluent in factory speak, things slip. You waste time, lose face, and sometimes — end up with 8-wale velvet when you needed 21-wale cord.

The Real Problem Isn’t Whales

It’s the assumption that your supplier knows what you mean. Or that you’re speaking the same language just because you’re both using English.

Factories deal with hundreds of clients, and not all of them are clear, consistent, or educated in fabric specs. When you sound unsure, you lose trust — and leverage.

If you’re learning how to start your own clothing line, this is the stuff that separates hobbyists from real operators.

What You Need to Do Differently

If you’re serious about starting a clothing business, here’s how to avoid whale-level confusion:

Know your terms — fabric specs, sampling stages, construction details
Always clarify measurements (wale per inch, GSM, shrink % — don’t just say “thin cord”)
Show references or images when in doubt
Never assume — confirm everything, in writing, with supporting materials